ciudad porteña de mi único querer,
oigo la queja de un bandoneón,
dentro del pecho pide rienda el corazón.
In my opinion there are two types of cities: the ones you fall in love with and the others.
So, when we got to Buenos Aires I felt this magic “click”. I have no idea what will be a perfect time frame to visit this city and to understand it fully, we had only 4 days and it was definitely not enough.
The city of contrasts. That´s what I call it. It´s a mix of Latin America and European cultures and you see it everywhere, on every street corner. On one side it´s tango, choripán made at San Telmo, reggaeton music sounds from cars in traffic, mate´s smell all around; and on another side: Puerto Madero – Argentinian Canary Wharf, Starbucks and MacDonald´s almost in every block and “Delivery” sign in all the restaurants in Palermo and Recoleta, which are considered to be the best zones for living in Baires.
The Contrasts. The Bohemian part of Palermo with its boulevards and huge parks, opened for everyone who wants to do some sports or just take a walk around – which we actually did – reminded me London somehow, so different to La Boca with its crazy football fans “los salvajes” (we were there just on time a game between Boca Juniors and Temperley was about to begin), colorful buildings made of wood and sheet metal, handmade empanadas on the street accompanied with calimocho – spirit of one of the poorest districts of the city.
La Casa Rosada
Things I loved:
- Friendly and smiley people who are always willing to help a tourist
- Incredible food, especially Asado – typical Argentinian bbq, which we had almost every evening!!
The way they cook it is a ritual, it takes a couple of hours to prepare meat on a grill, called a parrilla, or an open fire. The flavor is amazing, and they only use salt, no marinade, no spices at all.
- The city is full of emotions, movements, events. The city which is simply ALIVE. It is lively as ever, its soul can not leave you indifferent, it leaves a mark.
Tango. Of course it deserves a special attention here.
It was hard to decide where to go to see a tango show, there are so many lists and ratings on the internet that it makes you confused. Tango shows at El Caminito (little path, in Spanish) contrasting with luxury tango salons like Piazzolla Tango. The variety drives you crazy.
But…we got lucky 🙂 We were sitting at a bar in La Boca discussing tango places and a girl suddenly approached us, it turned out that she was a tango dancer and her friend was giving a tango performance at a place called Bar Sur in San Telmo! They told us that just by saying his name at the door we would be given a discount or even pass for free and the place was truly worth it to go. The choice was made fast!
We got there the same evening. At the entrance we were greeted by Marito – a doorman speaking perfect english and around 75 years old, dressed in a black tuxedo. He let us in, where a tango couple were already performing and tango music drove into us. The place was pretty tiny, there were about ten small tables lining next to the walls and the space in the middle reserved for the performers.
The performance was divided into several parts including a dance show, tango music which was instrumental (guitar, piano and accordion) and a vocalist, who´s voice was so charming. I felt like I´ve just entered into a parallel reality, where only dance and music existed.
I think I can talk about Buenos Aires hours and hours and I would love to live there for a while and experience the city even more.
I will remember it for a long time, it´s just impossible to forget, this city conquers you and gets to you heart, even if it´s a Siberian cold one!